Nisovski rocky monastery – TOUR 67/ September 2014

‘We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.’, said Jawaharlal Nehru.

The inspirational quote describes our adventure perfectly in search of Nisovski rocky monastery.

 

That story began 4 years ago when in the summer of 2010 we were in Polomieto area - TOUR 11.

While we were there we made a timid attempt or more specifically looked round the region. We weren’t prepared, lacked equipment, and the area was hard to reach. We met a shepherd who told us he looked after the road ahead, mowing down grass and weeds but at the moment there were some snakes, mosquitoes and lots of grass, and we were wearing only shorts and T-shirts – we came back immediately.

Years passed by and one question always had no answer, ‘When shall we return to look for the monastery?’

The spring of 2014 arrived and right at Easter we had the great opportunity but then the weather decided to throw us into another direction- TOUR 66

September 2014 and to be exact 22 September – the weather forecast – rain. It had rained for a few days  ….. we were expecting mud.

Longing for adventures we were firmly determined – WE WERE GOING.

In the morning we set off for Nisovo village. The road passed by Cherven village. I had always liked the steep narrow streets, the stone cottages and the charm of this village.

We stopped to imprint the ruins of the medieval town and the view of a village part.

 

The sun started shining around and the day seemed to be sunny and warm. After Cherven village heading to Nisovo the road is so strait and the fields are as vast as you can see.

We went down and just in front of the bridge of Mali Lom River, a little before Nisovo village, we stopped, put on our rucksacks and made our way at a brisk pace to the right bank against the river flow. There was dew and lots of mud at some places but it was fresh and nice to walk. We came to the first bridge, we had seen before, but had passed by it – again.

When we were here previously, the shepherd had said that was the right direction. According to his words a little before the monastery another bridge lead to the opposite river bank. We didn’t think for a moment and walked on. It didn’t seem to be autumn. The only thing that hinted it was the end of September, were the fallen yellow poplar leaves.

Everything was fresh, the grass was green and there were blossomed flowers. We reached the place where we had met the shepherd and a few steps further the sound of the river attracted us to a small fall.

All had been normal so far.

None of our humble company expected after that there wouldn’t be a way or a path. Nettle – up to the waist – you either had to go through it to get to some thorny and blackberry bushes or you had to choose the option of duck walking under branches in the wood stumbling on other weeds and branches.

What can I tell you – we crossed the nettle – not only once. In the end, you just didn’t care. We tried the thorny bushes, too. I still have a scar from one that scratched my hand. We chose the wood as well. More exactly remains of an old, perhaps a Roman road, which disappeared at times but by saying a road I mean a stone pile to show us just the direction. Everything was terribly overgrown with grass. We knew the monastery was hard to approach but so hard?!

A note: ‘We will start saving for a machete!’, ‘Who will carry it though?’

A nasty snake distracted the situation for a change and there were some trails of wild pigs everywhere that had had a party in the river. We were so scared at some point that we started singing, whistling, clapping hands –not for something else but if there was something to run away far because no one knew who would be more frightened!

Almost desperate passing by the consecutive doze of nettle and thorny bushes we got to a meadow. The rocks opposite were high and very impressive. There was no way ahead. ‘And how shall we go back?’ After pulling ourselves together in the setting Nikola noticed there was a real wide road on the river bank. Fortunately a tree had fallen between both banks. ‘Shall we walk on through the jungle or try to cross the improvised bridge as the worst option is that someone will fall in the water and get wet?’ Well that was the question. It took us some seconds to line up and about half an hour to go along the slippery tree –everyone in their own way – dragging on their butt, supporting with sticks etc. We, the ladies, were assisted, of course. After that complicated procedure we were dirty and muddy but cheered up. Maybe you are wondering why there are no photos. I wasn’t feeling like taking photos in the bushes and it wasn’t possible near the tree because of the hanging branches and the tall grass.

We were walking on the dirt road feeling pleased on the left river bank opposite the current.

After a turn all of us were very happy and screamed ‘Here it is!!!’

We threw the rucksacks on the rest table and dropped heavily on the benches. The nettle around the table didn’t impress anyone at that stage.

The other bridge was there as well, which the shepherd had mentioned about. We had a snack, a rest and were on our way to the magnificent rock. Here is how the road to the top looks like.

There was a carved ladder in a crack between the rocks, supported by a metal rope.

 

 

Somewhere in the middle there was a small platform with a sign: ‘Sv. Sv. Konstantin and Elena’ Nisovski rocky monastery.

  

And now officially we had already discovered the big Nisovski rocky monastery. The feeling was great. It is supposed it was founded in about XI century. We had a look at the cells. We were impressed by two sunken graves.

 

 

There were traces of wall paintings and the views were spectacular. 

 

 

 

  

 

On the way back – following the normal road (on the right bank of the current) we walked with a much better rhythm although we were slightly tired. We came upon the small Nisovski rocky monastery as well.

 

The access to it is a bit more extreme. We went through a crack between the rocks again and got to a small platform. 

 

 There are metal brackets and ropes on the rock itself.

I decided to miss that though I was brave. Only the boys went up. I rushed back to the crack so that I could take photos.

Saying ‘rushed’ is exaggerated because even if one didn’t go down but only took big steps, it was great for stretching. ‘Today I don’t know if there is a muscle left that isn’t taking part!’

 

Somewhere at the end of the road we found a board, all covered with grass showing that we had passed just in the proper way. Heroes!!!! And let’s remember the most important thing, ‘Always find a different way back!’

Clarification (according to the true route): You go along the right bank opposite the current, the last bridge takes you to the monastery and then you return on the right bank along the current. You make a big circle in a few words. It is for those who have an adventurous spirit and want to raise their adrenaline.

In the late afternoon we were still strolling around Mali Lom River, and some strange clouds were floating in the sky.

In the end we got on the car. It started raining. Lightnings were tearing the sky apart. Thunders echoed, and the rain was getting stronger. It was pouring with rain.

I don’t want to think what would have happened if it had started raining earlier, especially where there was no road, but only some nettle, thorny bushes and dense impenetrable vegetation!

That’s how our second part of the long expected holiday began.

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