A fairy tale from ‘Geo park Iskar-Panega” TOUR №20/07.2011

At the end of July 2011 we made a spontaneous tour of Lukovit area and the village of Karlukovo, ‘Geo park Iskar-Panega’. The park is divided into two parts – landscape «Panega» and a karst complex called «Karlukovo».. The geo park is situated just near Lukovit town on the road Ruse-Pleven-Sofia.There are some boards and a parking lot. 

There are wooden stairs after the entrance that take you to the low ground near Panega River, an estuary of Iskar River.

It comes from one of the biggest karst springs in Bulgaria, Glava Panega and the water is turquoise.

The route follows the river current. 

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Summer, heat, mosquitoes and rainfalls were expected, it was wet and stifling in the lowlands and very windy in the highlands – it wasn’t like a beginning of a «fairy tale» at all. 

We set off with great enthusiasm. At the very beginning we met a shepherd who started asking us what we were doing in the area. Of course, we explained we were there to make a tour of the area. He warned us to be very careful because there were snakes.»Blast it!» 

A few days ago one of the cows was bitten on the leg, and another one lay down on a snake by chance and thus died with the snake underneath.

We moved on.

A bit further following the narrow path on the left bank of the river we entered the kingdom of the dragonflies. There were colourful little dragonflies flying all around us. Besides, the place turned out to be a kingdom of wild weeds as well. As if no one had stepped in that jungle for a long time. Tall grass, grown from the dampness and the sun, had seized everything. The perfect spot for the snakes, »stinkers». We moved one after another as the first one lifted and took away the weeds with every step on the road not to come upon a snake ambush. By pushing the grass aside dragonflies flew up. The river was running quietly and the colours were fantastic where the sun was shining.

There were some reflections of trees, bushes … a fairy tale.

Unfortunately it was hard to enjoy the magic around us because of the constant need to look down at our feet …A bit later a wooden bridge turned up that connected both river banks.

There was another one (supported with metal) a little farther 

… and that was how we got to a shadowy place for recreation and a possible picnic. We stopped but not for a long time because the kingdom of mosquitoes and «other pests» was here. The river made a turn near the pavilion and high rocks were reflected in its water.

It is most interesting for the tourists here because the trail continues on a wooden bridge above the river mounted to the rocks.

The river is winding and weird rocky formations complement the landscape.

 Following the tourist trail you would go straight to the karst complex in Karlukovo. We had researched the distances in advance and thought we wouldn’t have enough time, so we went back and set out for Karlukovo.

What was most interesting to us was «Prohodna» cave. The cave turned out to be easy to reach. The odd thing was that it was right under the road we had travelled on. This cave represents the longest cave tunnel in the country – 262 m long. There are two entrances as the height of the western one reaches 47 m. I had read somewhere it was the highest cave entrance in the country. The entrance we used in the cave kingdom was about 35 m.

The cave is naturally lit up. It is due to the other interesting formation called «Oknata» or «God’s eyes» - two holes with the same size resembling eyes. 

They have been formed by the natural erosion processes and the water. The cavern is a shelter of bats, rock swallows and other bird representatives. You can meet Homo sapiens as well such as – fans and enthusiasts practising bungee jumps, rock climbing etc. We saw representatives of both groups, mentioned above.

We stepped forward on the path and our heads started going round in amazement. What height, what impressiveness?! We didn’t feel like leaving it. The other entrance from the Cavern home was really huge.

It was time to get our next stamp. We came back to the parking lot and were off to «Petar Tranteev» National cavern home to receive the stamp №30. We were surprised there was no one and decided to have a look around. The view was magnificent. We could see Iskar River, other rocks and forward as far as possible the Balkan Mountain curves, and more specifically Teteven Balkan mountain. We made up our mind to look for someone in the village who could give us some more information where to get the stamp from. We were told to go down to the Psychiatric clinic.

The man with the stamps worked there, too. We went there but without success as we couldn’t find the right man. Anyway, we looked at the matter from another angle.

Национален пещерен дом

However, the story with the stamp started becoming really annoying because we were wasting our time and we had decided in advance to have a look of the area from a panoramic point of view and that demanded a lot of time. We returned to the cavern home again. We entered the hallway (it was open) and nobody was there. Just after the porter’s glass «the precious» stamp could be seen.

Some negative emotions started arising inside of me but finally the great idea of opening the book came up to see if we could take a stamp from another object in the area. «Which number is the seal?» I looked at the board above the entrance of the cavern home where that information was shown - «30»! «Are you sure?» I looked again as the sun burnt my head a lot during the day «Yes»! «Well, do you know we have the stamp №30!!!» «!!!!???!!» and we were goggling in dismay.

The stamp number 30 was ‘The Ethnographic Museum’ – Lovech, which we had already received. And what happened: we wasted about an hour and a half to fool around because of a seal that we had had actually. Sometimes I am really fed up with that book as we go back and deviate from our plans because of it – but it’s our passion! And in that case it’s not the book to blame!

So, somehow pleased or not …we continued travelling to the «panoramic view». Amazing!!!

There was such a strong wind that would take us away!

There was another great wonder called «Provartenika». A rock tower with a hole, where it had been proved that during the winter and summer solstice, the sunshine passed right through the hole.

It looked like the Thracian creations and the incredible similarity with «Probitiya kamak» near Venchan TOUR 9 ‘A view of Venchan from Nevsha’  supported that theory even more?! 

We realised that tour was like a tale at a later stage when most of the disadvantages had almost faded away and only the beautiful views, the tranquility, the solitude, the flapping dragonflies, the cavern grandeur appeared on the surface of the memories!

Now when I go back there it looks like a fairy tale!

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Nisovski rocky monastery – TOUR 67/ September 2014

‘We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.’, said Jawaharlal Nehru.

The inspirational quote describes our adventure perfectly in search of Nisovski rocky monastery.

 

That story began 4 years ago when in the summer of 2010 we were in Polomieto area - TOUR 11.

While we were there we made a timid attempt or more specifically looked round the region. We weren’t prepared, lacked equipment, and the area was hard to reach. We met a shepherd who told us he looked after the road ahead, mowing down grass and weeds but at the moment there were some snakes, mosquitoes and lots of grass, and we were wearing only shorts and T-shirts – we came back immediately.

Years passed by and one question always had no answer, ‘When shall we return to look for the monastery?’

The spring of 2014 arrived and right at Easter we had the great opportunity but then the weather decided to throw us into another direction- TOUR 66

September 2014 and to be exact 22 September – the weather forecast – rain. It had rained for a few days  ….. we were expecting mud.

Longing for adventures we were firmly determined – WE WERE GOING.

In the morning we set off for Nisovo village. The road passed by Cherven village. I had always liked the steep narrow streets, the stone cottages and the charm of this village.

We stopped to imprint the ruins of the medieval town and the view of a village part.

 

The sun started shining around and the day seemed to be sunny and warm. After Cherven village heading to Nisovo the road is so strait and the fields are as vast as you can see.

We went down and just in front of the bridge of Mali Lom River, a little before Nisovo village, we stopped, put on our rucksacks and made our way at a brisk pace to the right bank against the river flow. There was dew and lots of mud at some places but it was fresh and nice to walk. We came to the first bridge, we had seen before, but had passed by it – again.

When we were here previously, the shepherd had said that was the right direction. According to his words a little before the monastery another bridge lead to the opposite river bank. We didn’t think for a moment and walked on. It didn’t seem to be autumn. The only thing that hinted it was the end of September, were the fallen yellow poplar leaves.

Everything was fresh, the grass was green and there were blossomed flowers. We reached the place where we had met the shepherd and a few steps further the sound of the river attracted us to a small fall.

All had been normal so far.

None of our humble company expected after that there wouldn’t be a way or a path. Nettle – up to the waist – you either had to go through it to get to some thorny and blackberry bushes or you had to choose the option of duck walking under branches in the wood stumbling on other weeds and branches.

What can I tell you – we crossed the nettle – not only once. In the end, you just didn’t care. We tried the thorny bushes, too. I still have a scar from one that scratched my hand. We chose the wood as well. More exactly remains of an old, perhaps a Roman road, which disappeared at times but by saying a road I mean a stone pile to show us just the direction. Everything was terribly overgrown with grass. We knew the monastery was hard to approach but so hard?!

A note: ‘We will start saving for a machete!’, ‘Who will carry it though?’

A nasty snake distracted the situation for a change and there were some trails of wild pigs everywhere that had had a party in the river. We were so scared at some point that we started singing, whistling, clapping hands –not for something else but if there was something to run away far because no one knew who would be more frightened!

Almost desperate passing by the consecutive doze of nettle and thorny bushes we got to a meadow. The rocks opposite were high and very impressive. There was no way ahead. ‘And how shall we go back?’ After pulling ourselves together in the setting Nikola noticed there was a real wide road on the river bank. Fortunately a tree had fallen between both banks. ‘Shall we walk on through the jungle or try to cross the improvised bridge as the worst option is that someone will fall in the water and get wet?’ Well that was the question. It took us some seconds to line up and about half an hour to go along the slippery tree –everyone in their own way – dragging on their butt, supporting with sticks etc. We, the ladies, were assisted, of course. After that complicated procedure we were dirty and muddy but cheered up. Maybe you are wondering why there are no photos. I wasn’t feeling like taking photos in the bushes and it wasn’t possible near the tree because of the hanging branches and the tall grass.

We were walking on the dirt road feeling pleased on the left river bank opposite the current.

After a turn all of us were very happy and screamed ‘Here it is!!!’

We threw the rucksacks on the rest table and dropped heavily on the benches. The nettle around the table didn’t impress anyone at that stage.

The other bridge was there as well, which the shepherd had mentioned about. We had a snack, a rest and were on our way to the magnificent rock. Here is how the road to the top looks like.

There was a carved ladder in a crack between the rocks, supported by a metal rope.

 

 

Somewhere in the middle there was a small platform with a sign: ‘Sv. Sv. Konstantin and Elena’ Nisovski rocky monastery.

  

And now officially we had already discovered the big Nisovski rocky monastery. The feeling was great. It is supposed it was founded in about XI century. We had a look at the cells. We were impressed by two sunken graves.

 

 

There were traces of wall paintings and the views were spectacular. 

 

 

 

  

 

On the way back – following the normal road (on the right bank of the current) we walked with a much better rhythm although we were slightly tired. We came upon the small Nisovski rocky monastery as well.

 

The access to it is a bit more extreme. We went through a crack between the rocks again and got to a small platform. 

 

 There are metal brackets and ropes on the rock itself.

I decided to miss that though I was brave. Only the boys went up. I rushed back to the crack so that I could take photos.

Saying ‘rushed’ is exaggerated because even if one didn’t go down but only took big steps, it was great for stretching. ‘Today I don’t know if there is a muscle left that isn’t taking part!’

 

Somewhere at the end of the road we found a board, all covered with grass showing that we had passed just in the proper way. Heroes!!!! And let’s remember the most important thing, ‘Always find a different way back!’

Clarification (according to the true route): You go along the right bank opposite the current, the last bridge takes you to the monastery and then you return on the right bank along the current. You make a big circle in a few words. It is for those who have an adventurous spirit and want to raise their adrenaline.

In the late afternoon we were still strolling around Mali Lom River, and some strange clouds were floating in the sky.

In the end we got on the car. It started raining. Lightnings were tearing the sky apart. Thunders echoed, and the rain was getting stronger. It was pouring with rain.

I don’t want to think what would have happened if it had started raining earlier, especially where there was no road, but only some nettle, thorny bushes and dense impenetrable vegetation!

That’s how our second part of the long expected holiday began.

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